Audemars piguet royal oak

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: the steel watch that revolutionized haute horlogerie and broke paradigms in 1972.

About this subject

Launched in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was a landmark in watchmaking history. Designed by Gerald Genta in a single day, the model defied conventions by combining a stainless steel case with a high price, unprecedented for a material considered “less noble.” Genta drew inspiration from a diving helmet and the porthole design of the HMS Royal Oak, a British Royal Navy ship, to create the octagonal bezel with exposed screws, which became the watch's visual signature.

The Royal Oak was the first luxury sports watch in steel, inaugurating the “luxury sports watch” category. Its integrated steel bracelet was a technical challenge: links were molded and brushed to provide exceptional comfort. The “tapisserie” dial, with a checkerboard pattern, is another iconic element, produced by a special guilloché process that creates depth. Initially criticized for its bold design, the model won over collectors over time.

Over the decades, the Royal Oak has received numerous variations: models with complications such as chronograph, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, as well as editions in precious metals. The collection also inspired the Royal Oak Offshore, launched in 1993, with a larger case and more robust feel. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most recognized watches globally, a symbol of status and timeless design, maintaining the handcrafted production characteristic of Audemars Piguet, a Swiss watchmaker founded in 1875.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why was the Royal Oak so revolutionary?

It was the first luxury sports watch in steel, breaking the tradition that expensive watches should be gold. Genta's bold design also challenged the aesthetic standards of the time.

What does ‘tapisserie’ on the dial mean?

Tapisserie refers to the raised checkerboard pattern on the dial, achieved by guilloché. This handcrafted process creates texture and depth, a hallmark of Royal Oak models.

Is the Royal Oak still produced today?

Yes, Audemars Piguet continues to produce various versions of the Royal Oak, from basic three-hand models to advanced complications. The Offshore line also remains in production.