Rolex submariner closeup

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rolex submariner closeup in editorial style

The Rolex Submariner is an iconic dive watch, launched in 1953, renowned for its robustness and timeless design.

About this subject

The Rolex Submariner was introduced in 1953 as the first wristwatch to be water-resistant to 100 meters, a milestone in horology. Developed in collaboration with professional divers, it quickly became the benchmark for dive watches. By 1954, the date version (Submariner Date) was released, and water resistance was increased to 200 meters in the 1960s. Current models feature Cerachrom ceramic bezels that are highly scratch and corrosion resistant, and high-precision automatic movements like caliber 3235 (with date) and 3230 (no date).

The Submariner’s aesthetics are unmistakable: black or green dial (Kermit/Hulk), unidirectional rotating bezel with colored insert, luminescent markers and hands. Its design has remained faithful to the original, but with continuous technical improvements. The Submariner is also famous for its association with James Bond, who wore it in several films starting in 1962, and for being one of the most copied watches in the world.

Beyond collector appeal, the Submariner is a functional tool: it has a helium escape valve (in later models) for saturation diving, a Triplock crown with three seals, and an Oyster bracelet with extension clasp for use over a wetsuit. It is both a luxury icon and a tool watch, reflecting Rolex’s philosophy of combining sport and elegance. Its popularity is so high that waiting lists at authorized dealers can last years, and secondary market prices often exceed retail.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the maximum depth rating of the current Rolex Submariner?

The current Rolex Submariner (references 124060 and 126610) is water-resistant to 300 meters (1000 feet), thanks to the Oyster case and Triplock crown.

When was the first Rolex Submariner launched?

The Rolex Submariner was launched in 1953, presented at Baselworld that year. It was the first wristwatch to achieve 100 meters of water resistance.

What is the difference between the Submariner and the Submariner Date?

The main difference is that the Submariner Date has a date window at 3 o’clock and a movement with a date complication, while the standard Submariner has no date. Both have similar construction and water resistance.

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