Art deco sautoir necklace tassel

Art Deco sautoir necklace with tassel pendant, an emblematic piece of 1920s jewelry combining geometry, luxury, and movement.

About this subject

The sautoir necklace, also known as a long necklace or rope necklace, was one of the most iconic accessories of the Art Deco period, especially during the 1920s and 1930s. Unlike tight chokers, the sautoir hung down to the waist or even lower, often ending with a decorative pendant such as a tassel. This style complemented the fashion of the era, marked by straight dresses and low waistlines, and was worn both at night and during the day by elegant women.

The tassel on the Art Deco sautoir was not merely ornamental: it provided movement and visual emphasis, often crafted from strands of pearls, faceted glass beads, precious metals, or stones like onyx, coral, and jade. The geometric designs, with right angles and repetitive patterns, reflected the influence of avant-garde art movements like Cubism and Futurism, as well as the fascination with Egyptian culture following the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922.

Art Deco jewelry craftsmanship valued contrasts: the sparkle of diamonds against black onyx, the combination of platinum and gold, or the juxtaposition of materials such as enamel and lacquer. Sautoirs with tassels were particularly popular among the so-called "flappers," women who challenged social conventions and embraced a freer lifestyle. Many pieces were created by great houses like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron, which dominated the Deco aesthetic with high-luxury works.

Today, original Art Deco sautoirs are highly collectible, fetching high prices at auctions. Their handcrafted production, use of noble materials, and timeless design make them coveted objects for both fashion historians and vintage jewelry lovers. The tassel, in particular, continues to influence contemporary designers, who reinterpret the format in modern and bold versions.

Frequently Asked Questions

What characterizes an Art Deco sautoir necklace?

The Art Deco sautoir is a long necklace that typically ends with a pendant or tassel. It stands out for its geometric patterns, use of contrasting materials like onyx and diamonds, and the fluid elegance that accompanied 1920s fashion.

What materials were common in these necklaces?

Materials included platinum, gold, diamonds, pearls, onyx, coral, jade, enamel, and lacquer. The combination of precious metals with dark or colored stones was typical of the period.

How to identify an authentic Art Deco sautoir?

Authentic Art Deco sautoirs feature handmade clasps and settings, geometric symmetry, and often hallmarks from goldsmiths or jewelry houses like Cartier. Provenance and material quality are also indicators.