Edwardian girandole earrings

Edwardian girandole earring, a platinum and diamond jewel defining the refinement of the Belle Époque.

About this subject

Edwardian girandole earrings represent the pinnacle of Belle Époque jewelry (1890, 1910). They feature a central drop that branches into three pendants, often teardrop or leaf-shaped. Platinum, the era’s favored metal, enabled delicate filigree and bezel settings that accentuated old-cut diamonds.

The Edwardian style (1901, 1910) followed the Victorian era and preceded Art Deco. Influenced by King Edward VII of the United Kingdom, it valued lightness, symmetry, and intense sparkle. Girandoles were worn at balls and operas, complementing high hairdos and décolletage.

Historically, their production coincided with the peak of diamond mining in South Africa, making stones more available. Many pieces were crafted by houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co., masters of pliqué-à-jour technique.

A curiosity: the term “girandole” comes from Italian “girandola,” meaning a fireworks wheel, alluding to the pendants’ circular movement. These earrings require extreme skill to balance the three components, and original examples are exceedingly rare at auctions, often fetching six-figure sums.

Frequently Asked Questions

What defines an Edwardian girandole earring?

An Edwardian girandole earring features a central body with three suspended pendants, typically in platinum with diamonds. This style emerged in the early 20th century and is noted for symmetry and lightness.

What materials were typical in these earrings?

Platinum was the main metal due to its workability. Old-cut diamonds (rose cut, old mine cut) were most common, but pearls and sapphires also appear.

How to identify an authentic Edwardian girandole?

Details such as spring-loaded clasps, absence of karat marks on platinum (which is 950/1000 purity), and delicate filigree work are strong indicators of the 1901, 1910 period.