Audemars piguet royal oak

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is an iconic luxury watch launched in 1972, revolutionizing sports watch design with its octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet.

About this subject

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was launched in 1972 by the prestigious Swiss manufacturer Audemars Piguet. Its design was created by the legendary watchmaker Gérald Genta, who was tasked with designing a stainless steel watch as luxurious as a gold one, intended to be the most expensive model at that year's Baselworld. The result was an octagonal bezel with eight exposed screws, an integrated bracelet, and a dial featuring the 'Petite Tapisserie' pattern. The name 'Royal Oak' honors the British warship HMS Royal Oak, whose royal oak tree provided shelter to the future King Charles II.

The original model, reference 5402, nicknamed 'Jumbo' due to its 39mm diameter (large for its time), was thin and elegant at just 7mm thick. It housed the automatic caliber 2121, developed in partnership with Jaeger-LeCoultre (known as caliber 920), which was the thinnest automatic movement in the world then. Despite initial market shock, stainless steel was associated with cheap watches, the Royal Oak gradually became an icon, popularizing the concept of the 'luxury sports watch'.

Today, the Royal Oak is produced in numerous variants: materials such as steel, rose gold, platinum, and titanium; sizes from 33mm to 41mm; and complications like chronograph, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon. The 'Jumbo' ref. 15202ST retained the original design until it was discontinued in 2022, replaced by ref. 16202ST with the new caliber 7121. The Royal Oak is worn by celebrities such as LeBron James, John Mayer, and Serena Williams, and its popularity has fueled the integrated sports watch trend.

Interestingly, the design inspired countless imitations, but the original Audemars Piguet retains a cult status. At auction, rare examples like the ref. 5402ST in steel can exceed US$200,000. The watch is a status symbol and engineering marvel, cherished by collectors and enthusiasts for its unique blend of boldness and refinement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak?

The Royal Oak was designed by the legendary watchmaker Gérald Genta in 1972. He was tasked by Audemars Piguet to create a stainless steel sports watch as luxurious as a gold one, and the result became an icon.

Why is the Royal Oak called 'Jumbo'?

The original model reference 5402 had a 39mm diameter, considered large at the time. This larger size earned it the nickname 'Jumbo', and the term is still used today for versions that maintain the original proportions.

What movement powers the modern Royal Oak Jumbo?

The current Royal Oak Jumbo (reference 16202ST) uses the caliber 7121, a thin automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. It replaced the old caliber 2121, which was used for nearly 50 years.